In spring, the tension of winter and summer play out even in meals. Tonight’s dinner is kibbeh baked in a tray. Kibbeh is a Middle Eastern dish, made of a crust of bulghur processed with meat and onions to make a paste, and a filling of more meat and onions, and pine nuts. It’s seasoned with cinnamon and allspice. I think of it as being one of my “regular” dishes, something I make more or less often, but I think I don’t actually make it that often. It takes some time to make, and includes a couple ingredients, pine nuts and bulghur, that I don’t usually have lying around. But today I went shopping and got both to use with the meat I knew I had thawing in the back of my fridge. I took it out and was part way into my cook when I realized I had some beef and some venison. It didn’t matter. They combine well and both worked in this dish. Claudia Roden says to use fatty meat if you can, and this was not really fatty at all, but it still works.
The sugar snap peas are from last summer’s u-pick, and we’re still working on the giant batch of coleslaw Kevin made last week. They made delicious accompaniments to the kibbeh.